Meatgistics: Replacing a Gearbox for Walton's Stuffer
Meat Hacks: Replacing a Gearbox for Walton's Stuffer
Learn how to replace a gearbox for a Walton's Stuffer with Walton's and Meatgistics. Watch the video, read the guide, and then post your questions or comments below.
Learn how to replace a gearbox for a Walton’s Stuffer?
The first thing you are going to do is remove the canister from the base. Then you are going to unscrew the piston from the arm. Now you want to unscrew the four screws on the bottom of the housing and remove that plate. Next you remove the arm through the bottom of the gear housing, once it is cranked all the way down it should come out fairly easily if you pull it towards the back of the machine. Next you want to unscrew the 4 screws the side without the handle, these are metric bolts so you will want to use 14mm socket or wrench. You want to remove the bolts on the side without the handle, before you unscrew the two bolts on the side with the handle you will want to hold the gear box from the bottom, it normally will not fall out by itself but better safe than sorry. Now you pull the gear housing down and away from the side with the handle, the housing should come out fairly simply.
To replace this you will put the new gearbox in the same way you took the old one out but only loosely tighten the bolts back down to make it easier to make any adjustments later. Put the screws back in on the side and the bottom of the housing and then put the arm back up through the bottom. Now you want to check a few things before you go any further. You want the two small attachments for the handle to be as evenly centered in their holes as possible, if they are out of whack this can cause some grinding between the gears and the arm. So once your holes are centered check to make sure your arms is coming out the top in the center of that hole as well. If not loosen the bolts further and make adjustments by pushing or pulling the bolts that the crank attaches to until everything is centered. Now tighten everything back down and you are good to get back to making sausages!
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Cooked a batch of summmer in PK 100 casings are 1 7/8 by 12 cooked at 120 for one hour then 140 two hours then 180 tell internal of 152 but when I went to pull them the fat had liquefied any ideas
Tom T from Boise, ID
Oh… I ground the pork fat and the venison at the same time. 2 chunks of venison, 1 chunk of pork, back and forth…
Yes… sure cure and sure gel binder. The venison and pork fat were both still partially frozen when I ground them. First through the large course plate, then again through the small plate. (Not sure of sizes, but these are the plates i normally use for summer sausage). I probably should have put the meat back in the freezer before seasoning but i was pressed for time. I mixed by hand for 14 or 15 minutes. I also think I might have added to much water. The video said 2 quarts for wild game 2 pints for fatty pork. I put in 1 quart and about another cup. I mixed until it got tacky and then mixed some more. The meat seemed soupy to me but the video said that would be ok.
The shriveling occurred before I bumped the temp up. I was using a digital thermometer with a probe, when the temp stalled for a couple hours, I suspected the temp might be reading inaccurately so I opened the door to confirm with a dial thermometer. The digital was accurate but the sausage was already shriveling.
Another thing that bothered me was the casings… these had perforations for some reason. I e never used perforated casings before and seemed like I was losing a pot of moisture through them. Did I have the wrong casings? The other fibrous casings in the catalog said you were supposed to poke them anyway.